.png)
7 hours ago
5
British berries have a secret; we tend to reach for them in crumbles, fools and jammy things, but their real superpower is their tartness – it’s the key to their versatility. Think of them less as fruit and more as a condiment: something to cut through richness and balance a dish, in much the same way that a good vinegar might. I’ve long had a love affair with British berries – childhood summers spent picking blackberries from the hedgerows for my grandmother’s apple and blackberry pie started it all – but over the years I’ve become increasingly reluctant to confine them just to dessert. Let these be your permission to do the same.
Spicy fish sando with gooseberry ketchup
Prep 20 min
Cook 40 min
Serves 2
For the fish
A knob of butter
1 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp plain flour
¼ tsp cayenne, or to taste
20 grinds of black pepper
¼ tsp fine sea salt
2 plaice fillets (or white fish of your choice), skinned and cut in half lengthways
For the gooseberry ketchup
250g gooseberries (fresh or frozen), topped and tailed if required
1 small banana shallot (approx 50g), peeled and chopped into 5-6 chunks
1 small garlic clove, peeled and grated
2 tbsp chardonnay vinegar, or white wine vinegar
2 tbsp caster sugar
1½ tbsp olive oil
½ tsp mustard seeds
1 fresh bay leaf
For the slaw
½ tsp flaky sea salt
¼ red cabbage (approx 200g), tough outer leaves removed, very finely sliced
2 tbsp Kewpie mayonnaise (or standard mayonnaise)
1 tsp gochujang, or chilli paste of choice
½ tsp ginger paste
Juice of ½ lime
¼ tsp fine sea salt
1 large carrot (approx 200g), finely julienned or grated
2 spring onions, trimmed an d thinly sliced
To compile
4 slices brioche (or white bread of choice), toasted
For the ketchup, blend the berries, shallot, garlic, vinegar, 45ml water and sugar in a food processor until combined – it will retain some texture, particularly if using frozen berries.
Heat a small saucepan over medium-high heat, add the olive oil and, once hot, add the mustard seeds and bay leaf – they should sizzle gently. Bloom the spices for 45 seconds, then reduce the heat and stir in the gooseberry mixture. Simmer for 15–20 minutes, until slightly thickened and jammy, then take off the heat and adjust the seasoning to taste. (I like my ketchup to have texture but if you want it smooth, blend with a stick blender then pass through a sieve.) Transfer to a sterilised jar and, once cool, refrigerate for up to two weeks.
Sprinkle the half-teaspoon of flaky sea salt over the shredded red cabbage and massage it in for 30 seconds or so, then set aside to soften for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing by combining the mayonnaise, gochujang, ginger, lime juice and fine sea salt. Toss the carrots and spring onions through the red cabbage, followed by the dressing and set aside.
To cook the fish, heat a nonstick pan over a medium heat with the butter and oil. Combine the flour, cayenne, black pepper and salt in a shallow bowl and dust the plaice pieces in the seasoned flour. Pan-fry until golden – around one to two minutes per side.
To assemble, spread a tablespoon or two of ketchup on one slice of toasted brioche, top with a couple of pieces of fish and a generous portion of slaw. Close with the second slice, then cut in half and serve immediately.
Roast aubergine with whipped feta and strawberry-chilli salsa
Prep 15 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 4
For the roast aubergine
4 large aubergines, sliced into 2cm-thick rounds
75ml olive oil
½ tsp fine sea salt
For the roast chickpeas
240g chickpeas (drained weight), from a tin or jar, rinsed
2 tbsp olive oil
¼ tsp fine sea salt
½ tsp cumin seeds, lightly crushed
For the whipped feta
200g feta
2 x 125g balls mozzarella
2 tbsp milk or cream
Zest of 1 lime
For the strawberry-chilli salsa
250g strawberries, hulled and finely chopped
Juice of 1 lime
½ tsp flaky sea salt
1 scotch bonnet (or a milder chilli), finely chopped
1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
To serve
Drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil
2 handfuls mixed soft herbs ( coriander, parsley, dill, say)
Bread
Heat the oven to 230C (210C fan)/450F/gas 8 and line three baking trays with parchment paper. Combine all the ingredients for the strawberry-chilli salsa in a bowl and set aside.
Lay the aubergines on two of the prepared baking trays and brush with half the olive oil. Turn the slices over and repeat, then evenly sprinkle over the salt. Add the chickpeas to the third prepared baking tray and toss with the olive oil, salt and cumin seeds.
Transfer the aubergine to the top and middle shelf of the oven, and the chickpeas to the bottom shelf of the oven and roast for 35-45 minutes, moving the trays around in the oven halfway through to ensure even cooking. The aubergine should turn deeply golden and the chickpeas crisp.
Meanwhile, add the ingredients for the whipped feta to a food processor and blend until smooth.
To serve, spread the whipped feta across the base of a serving platter, top with the roast aubergine and crisp chickpeas, then garnish with the strawberry-chilli salsa and a drizzle of olive oil. Finish with the soft herbs and serve with bread for mopping.
Feta, blueberry and coriander scones
Prep 10 min
Chill 30 min
Cook 50 min
Makes 6
For the scones
330g plain flour
1 tbsp baking powder
50g caster sugar
2 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp fine sea salt
Zest of 1 lemon
160g unsalted butter, chilled
240ml buttermilk
100g feta, very thinly sliced widthways
75g blueberries
Demerara sugar, for sprinkling
For the coriander seed butter
25g unsalted butter
½ tsp coriander seeds, lightly crushed
Combine the dry ingredients and lemon zest in a large bowl. Grate in the cold butter and gently toss it through the flour mix until evenly distributed. Stir through the buttermilk until the dough starts to come together, then tip the mix into a clean tea towel, pick up the four corners and twist them together to compact the dough into one piece. (Alternatively, tip the mix on to a work surface and briefly knead together).
Pat the dough into a rough rectangle of about 23cm x 13cm, and complete an envelope fold. Turn the rectangle 90 degrees and pass a rolling pin over a couple of times to create another rectangle. Arrange half the feta and half the blueberries on the left hand side of the rectangle, then fold the right hand side over it (like you’re closing a book). Gently press down to flatten, then turn 90 degrees and repeat with the remaining feta and blueberries.
Pat the rectangle into a 20cm x 13cm rectangle, about 4cm thick and trim the edges if you like. Cut into six squares, then transfer to a lined baking tray and chill in the fridge for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, melt the butter with the crushed coriander seeds until fragrant, then take off the heat.
Heat oven to 220C (190C fan)/425F/gas 7. Remove the scones from the fridge, brush the tops with the melted butter, then sprinkle each one with a scant half-teaspoon of demerara sugar. Bake for about 30 minutes, turning the heat down to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 halfway through, until the scones are towering, golden and cooked through. Cool for 10 minutes before serving, either as they are, or with clotted cream and blackcurrant jam, or herby cream cheese.
Salted pork chops with blackberry hoisin and cucumber salad
Prep 15 min
Rest 24 hr
Cook 45 min
Serves 2, generously
For the pork chops
2 bone-in pork chops (approx 900-1kg), at least 2.5cm thick
2 tsp fine sea salt
2 tbsp olive oil (or neutral oil)
1-2 tbsp water
1 garlic clove, peeled
A pat of butter
A squeeze of fresh lime
Sticky rice, to serve
For the blackberry hoisin
125g blackberries
4 tbsp soft dark brown sugar
3 tbsp black bean garlic sauce (I use Lee Kum Kee)
3 tbsp water
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp honey
1½ tbsp rice wine vinegar
½ tsp Chinese five spice powder
½ tsp tahini
¼ tsp gochujang, or other chilli sauce
For the cucumber salad
2 tbsp rice vinegar
2 tsp toasted sesame oil
4 tsp olive oil
1 tsp flaky sea salt
1 garlic clove, peeled and grated
½ tbsp mayonnaise (I like Kewpie)
1 cucumber, very thinly sliced (this is easiest on a mandoline)
1 handful soft, fresh herbs (dill, coriander, parsley)
Sesame seeds, lightly toasted, to garnish
The day before, season the pork chops with salt, then store in the fridge uncovered. If you’re short on time, do this just before cooking.
To make the blackberry hoisin, add all the ingredients to a small saucepan and put over a medium heat, stirring until everything has melted together – about two minutes. Bring the mixture to a boil, then simmer gently for six to eight minutes. Blend the sauce with a stick blender, then pass through a sieve and transfer to a jar. Store in the fridge until ready to use. You can make this up to a week in advance, and it’s all the better for it.
To make the cucumber salad, whisk together the rice vinegar, sesame oil, olive oil, salt, garlic and mayonnaise in a medium bowl. Toss this through the sliced cucumbers and set aside.
To cook the pork, heat a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan over a medium heat. Once hot, add the oil, wait a minute for it to heat up, then add the pork chops. Cook until golden brown – around five to six minutes on each side. Finally, turn the pork chops on to their sides so that the fat cap can get a little colour – two to three minutes. Remove the chops from the pan and rest for five to 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, pour off the excess fat, then add the water, scraping up all the golden bits off the base of the pan. Add the garlic and let it infuse briefly before adding the butter. Let the sauce bubble away for a minute, then add the lime juice to taste.
To serve, carve away the bone on the pork chop, then slice the meat thickly. Toss the soft herbs through the cucumber salad and garnish with the sesame seeds. Serve the sliced pork chops on plates with the pan sauce drizzled over the top, and the cucumber salad, hoisin sauce and some sticky rice alongside.
Brown sugar joconde with raspberries and sour cream
Prep 10 min
Cook 40 min, plus cooling
Serves 12
For the sponge
200g ground almonds
200g soft light brown sugar
60g cake flour (or plain flour)
¼ tsp fine sea salt
5 medium eggs
½ tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp almond extract
6 medium egg whites
2 tbsp caster sugar
70g salted butter, melted
For the macerated raspberries
300g raspberries
2 tbsp caster sugar
2 tbsp fresh lime juice
For the sour cream chantilly
300ml double cream
3 tbsp caster sugar
1½ tsp vanilla bean paste
60g sour cream
Heat the oven to 230C (210C fan)/450F/gas 8 and line a 23cm x 33cm traybake tin with greaseproof paper.
Whisk together the ground almonds, brown sugar, flour and salt in a large bowl, breaking up any stubborn lumps of sugar. Whisk in the whole eggs until combined, along with the vanilla and almond extracts. Whip for an extra minute or so to get some air into the batter.
In a scrupulously clean bowl, use an electric hand whisk to whip the egg whites to soft peaks. Gradually add the caster sugar and continue whisking until you have moist, stiff peaks.
Gently fold the egg whites into the ground almond mix a third at a time. Finally, fold in the melted butter. Gently transfer to the lined baking tray and bake for 15 minutes, until golden on top and firm to the touch.
Meanwhile, toss the raspberries with the sugar and lime juice and set aside to macerate.
Remove the sponge from the oven and set aside to cool completely, before lifting out of the tin and transferring to a wire rack. Peel away the parchment paper from the sides.
To serve, whip the cream, caster sugar and vanilla to soft peaks, then fold through the sour cream. Transfer the whipped cream to the top of the sponge and use an offset spatula or back of a spoon to spread it out in swooshes. Top with the raspberries, drizzle with the extra juices, and serve cut into squares.
-
Alexina Anatole is the author of the Small Wins Substack and Sweet: the Secret to the Best Desserts, published by Square Peg at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to guardianbookshop.com.
