Some question why young women should climb mountains but hiking gives me freedom | Mohsina Gufran

Before sunrise, my two closest friends and I pack water bottles, food and biscuits into our backpacks. We put on whatever shoes we have, pull our hijabs tightly against the cold wind, and leave for the mountains above our village in Kargil, in Ladakh – part of Indian-administered Kashmir.

The things we usually hear on the trail are birdsong, flowing water and our own laughter echoing through the mountains.

That effect of being outside in nature is difficult to explain. In Kargil, young women and girls are expected to study, help with responsibilities at home and live carefully. Daily life feels mechanical – studies, responsibilities and routines. But when I am in the mountains of India, everything changes. I feel alive.

At 23, I live with my parents, four sisters and one brother, and am pursuing my master’s degree in English at the University of Ladakh’s Kargil campus. I grew up in Pashkum, a small village 2,900m above sea level and about 10km from the town of Kargil, the joint capital of Ladakh. For the past four years, trekking has become one of the most important parts of my life.

We are always the same group of three girls. We discuss the route, weather and timing beforehand, then begin climbing together.

We do not have professional trekking gear. It is too expensive and difficult to find so we wear simple trousers, warm jackets, sports shoes and hijabs.

In Kargil, where hiking is still unusual for young women, some people criticise us for spending so much time outdoors or travelling to remote places. Some relatives question why young women should climb mountains at all.

Mohsina Gufran, 23, takes a break on a trail in the Kargil mountains. She says hiking has given her independence and confidence. Photograph: Sajad Hameed

But once we begin hiking, those voices disappear.

Trekking teaches us patience, strength and love for nature. Whenever we complete a difficult climb and finally reach the top, the view makes every difficult step worth it.

One of my favourite treks took us almost five hours to complete. We started in Kargil and climbed to a place called Lankerchey Broq through rocky slopes and difficult mountain paths until we could finally see the entire valley below us. I remember standing there exhausted but happy, looking across the mountains and feeling proud that we had made it.

The mountains also give us something else: freedom.

During hikes we talk about our future plans in ways we cannot always do elsewhere. We dream about exploring all of Kargil first, then Ladakh, then the rest of India and maybe one day the world.

Our friendship has become stronger. Whenever one of us becomes tired during a difficult climb, the others encourage her to keep going. If one of us struggles, the others slow down and help her.

Even now there are people who dislike what we do and make negative comments about us, but I think attitudes are changing. Families are becoming more supportive and more young women and girls are taking an interest in outdoor activities.

My parents were worried about safety when I first began trekking. They used to ask where we were going and why we needed to travel so far into the mountains. But over time they saw how important trekking became for me. Now they support me.

It is important for young women and girls to move freely outdoors because it gives us independence, experience and confidence. The more you explore, the more you learn about yourself and the world around you.

Before I started trekking, I lacked confidence. The mountains changed that. They taught me to trust myself and keep moving forwards, even during difficult times.

People often underestimate girls from Kargil. They assume we cannot be religious, ambitious and independent at the same time. But we can.

For me, hiking in a hijab means carrying my faith and my passion for adventure together.

Mohsina would like to be a mountain guide on day, as she has never known a female guide. Photograph: Sajad Hameed

I dream of becoming a mountain guide one day because I want other people to experience the same peace and beauty that I find in nature. I want to show people the mountains where I grew up. I have never met a female mountain guide.

I also hope to enter public leadership one day. Growing up, I rarely saw women speaking openly about issues affecting young women or representing our concerns publicly. I want to become someone who listens seriously to people’s problems and works on them honestly, especially issues affecting young women and girls such as safety, freedom and opportunities to move independently.

When I imagine my life 10 years from now, I still see myself exploring mountains around the world. I want to continue trekking, mountaineering and exploring new places.

And if my future daughter ever reads this, I want her to know one thing: she should never be afraid to step outside and see the world for herself.

• As told to Rehan Qayoom Mir